Here the nose offers a step up in aromatic depth with its very spicy nose of both red and blue pinot fruit that is trimmed in plenty of warm earth and floral character. There is an almost pungent minerality to the broad-shouldered and palate staining medium weight flavors that are utterly delicious before culminating in an explosively long but focused, balanced, chalky and mouth coating finish. A knockout.
The 2011 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-les-Milieu comes from a parcel that Lalou’s family had been buying since 1949. It has an extraordinarily pure bouquet with raspberry preserve, wild strawberry, cold stone and cheeky touch of marmalade. The palate is structured on the entry: a little more masculine than her other crus with a tightly wound finish. A little more closed than say, Dominique Lafon’s 2011, encountered the previous day, and probably deserving two or three years in bottle. (NM)
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