The 2016 Gevrey villages bottling at Domaine Trapet is quite black fruity this year, offering up fine purity and nascent complexity in its mélange of black cherries, dark berries, grilled meats, dark soil tones, just a hint of vanillin oak and plenty of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely reserved in personality, with a fine core, excellent focus and grip and a long, modestly tannic and primary finish. This will need a few years in the cellar to blossom, but should prove to be an excellent village wine.
The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Village contained 30% whole bunch fruit with a judicious 20% new oak. This offers a mixture of red and black fruit on the nose, some lovely woodland, damp earthy scents interwoven and discrete. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy tannin on the entry. Like the Marsannay Village, there are bundles of energy here, very tensile even if perhaps it does not quite have the length of the Marsannay. It should flesh out with bottle age, so afford it 3 or 4 years if you can. Domaine Jean et J L Trapet is rapidly becoming one of my favorite visits in Gevrey-Chambertin, and Jean-Louis' wines seem to have ascended a few levels in quality in recent vintages, frequently performing above expectations in blind tastings. And I loved these 2016s. Although he was impacted by the frost so that yields came in as low as 12 to 15 hectoliters per hectare, the quality of winemaking shines through. He picked on 25 September and, in my opinion, quite prudently opted to use less whole bunch than in 2015. In addition, he was cautious with the extraction, using remontage and only a small amount of pigeage because he found the color came so easily. These wines possess a clarity, vividness, tension and energy among the best in Burgundy. These barrel samples seemed to sing as soon as they were poured into my glass, each one articulating their vineyard origin with utmost clarity.
Full dark red with ruby tones. Rather wild aromas of black raspberry and smoke. Supple wine with an enticing balance of sweetness and acidity and the first of these 2016s to show a silkiness of texture. The dark raspberry and game flavors are complicated by torrefaction notes of coffee and mocha and a ripe dusting of tannins enrobed by mid-palate stuffing. (ST)
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