The older vines in de Vogüé's extensive 7.2ha in Musigny date back to 1953 and make a wine that's considerably weightier than the young-vine cuvée. This is very deep and intense in colour, exhibiting layers of dark bramble and black cherry flavours and a backbone of precise, chalky, mouthwatering acidity. A wine that needs time to digest its 35% new wood. Drinking Window 2026 - 2037. (TA)
The 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a very expressive, complex bouquet, the mélange of red, blue and black fruit making it difficult to identify a single dominant color. Blueberry, wild strawberry and black currant intermingle, and hints of sea spray and touches of orange blossom develop with time. The harmonious, silky palate is almost like a Romanée-Saint-Vivant in texture, offering great depth and an energetic, peppery finish that lingers long in the mouth. A divine Musigny that will deserve some bottle age.(NM)
An openly exotic nose offers glimpses of black cherry liqueur, ginger, Asian-style tea, sandalwood and orange peel. The tighter and much more mineral-driven big-bodied flavors also possess evident muscle on the powerful and dense yet beautifully refined finish that goes on and on. This is also a bit less structured though with that said, this is going to need at least 15 years to reach its apogee. In a word, terrific.
The 2017 Musigny old vine bottling was quite hunkered down after its recent racking, but though it was not as expressive as the Bonnes-Mares on this particular day, it showed good underlying soil signature and seemed to only be in need of more time out from the racking for everything to snap back into proper place. The wine certainly has lovely fruit elements in its mix of sappy black cherries and plums, complex soil tones, woodsmoke, gamebird, violets and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a good sappy core of black fruit, fine-grained tannins and lovely length and grip on the refined and quite soil-driven finish. This wine is not as precise as is customary (and which has to be a reflection of the post-racking period in which I tasted it), but there are really good elements here and if they all fall back into place properly, it will be a lovely wine. 2030-2080+.
The 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is showing very well indeed, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, rose petal, warm spices and orange rind, framed by creamy new wood. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and velvety, with the greatest depth and dimension of any wine in the cellar, displaying excellent energy and completeness, and distinguished above all by striking length on the finish. François Millet began the harvest at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé on September 2, having worked hard throughout the growing season to limit the generous potential yields provided by vines that suffered hard in the 2016 frosts. He succeeded in delaying malolactic fermentations until the following summer, and the resulting wines are unusually saturated in hue—to the extent that Millet was anxious to emphasize that he hadn't sought to extract more than usual. Readers will know the by now well-established rudiments of winemaking here: destemmed grapes, slow fermentations emphasizing pumping over—with pigeage reserved solely for the Bonnes Mares, delayed malolactic fermentations and élevage with one racking. (WK)
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