The 2007 Clos des Goisses is gorgeous. Almost shockingly finessed and light on its feet for Goisses, the 2007 is a wine of superb elegance. The power and richness of Goisses is there, but in the background. It will be many years before the 2007 blossoms into a complete, fully expressive Champagne. Even so, it is striking today. With time, hints of lemon confit, chamomile and marzipan develop in the glass, but readers will have to cellar the 2007 for at least five years, maybe more, to get the full Goisses experience. (AG)
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