From a loamier site, the 2006 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Kabinett displays subtle creaminess allied to genuine delicacy, featuring refined variations on spiced apple and pear, rhubarb preserves, and tingling finishing mineral suggestions. Amazingly, considering what I would not hesitate to call its “true Kabinett lightness,” this has around the same 10% alcohol as the powerful, scarcely-delicate “Quarzit” bottling. It also harbors yet higher – nearly ten grams – acidity. (DS)
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