Pineapple, grapefruit, and heady essence of gardenia dominate the Diel 2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spatlese, with hints of botrytis-engendered honey emerging as it opens to the air. An alkaline mineral note adds welcome counterpoint to the wine’s effusive (psychologically suggestive as well as actual) sweetness. The texture is polished, glycerin-rich, and creamy, characteristics which – along with the sense of liquid floral perfume – make for a soothing, seductive, buoyant, and soaring finish. Feel free to hold some of this extravagance for 20 or more years. (DS)
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