Joel B Payne writes: "After finishing his studies in Beaune 15 years ago, Stephane Riffault has slowly taken over the reins of the estate in Sury-en-Vaux that still bears his father's name. His brother Benoit never made it back to the Loire, but instead married and now runs Domaine Sauzet in Puligny-Montrachet, which perhaps helps explain the Burgundian approach to winemaking here. His father had no barrels in the cellar and made only one wine, a Sancerre. Stephane now makes five or more each vintage and most are fermented largely in smaller casks or barrels, of which some 10% are new. Contrary to some of his colleagues, he abhors malolactic conversions, which he believes have a negative impact on the character of sauvignon blanc. From his 13 hectares of organically farmed vineyards, he generally makes about 80,000 bottles a year." (09/14)
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