The 2017 Les St. Georges from the Gouges family is a brilliant young wine in the making. The nose wafts from the glass in a youthfully complex constellation of sweet dark berries, black plums, a touch of cherry, pigeon, a beautiful base of dark soil tones, cigar ash, woodsmoke and cedar. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very refined in profile, with a sappy core of fruit, excellent transparency, fine-grained tannins and a very, very long, impeccably balanced finish. The sense of mid-palate sappiness here is lurking, like the sun behind a cloud that is just about to break, and once this comes to the fore, the 2017 Les St. Georges is going to be one of the best recent vintages of this great wine produced by the Gouges family in a long time. 2028-2075.
There will be less Les St-Georges in 2018, as 20% of the vineyard has been replanted - if you're a fan of this wine, now is the time to stock up. It's appealingly aromatic and not as dense and brooding as this wine can be, but it's a stylish, spicy, savoury premier cru red with good focus and a backdrop of blood and iron. Drinking Window 2024 - 2029.(TA)
The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru has a refined, harmonious bouquet of blackberry and bilberry aromas penetrated by a slight flintiness. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and beautifully integrated oak. Seamless in texture, leading to a poised, pure finish. This is easily the best of Gouges’s 2017s. Superb.(NM)
There is just enough wood to merit mentioning framing the aromas of plum liqueur, black raspberry, warm earth and a touch of the sauvage. There is excellent intensity to the overtly powerful and more mineral-driven medium weight flavors that culminate in a beautifully long and complex if markedly austere finish. This is even a bit firmer than the Vaucrains and as collectors of the Gouges wines know well, this will not make for especially accessible early drinking.
The 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges is showing well, wafting from the glass with aromas of smoky berry fruit, licorice, candied peel, nori and rich soil tones, having already almost entirely integrated its framing of new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and nicely layered at the core, with good concentration, fine-grained but firm tannins and a precise, stony finish. Many of Gouges' 2017s had been bottled when I visited in mid-December, so these notes report on bottled wines; sadly, those that were still in tank awaiting bottling were not in any state to be reviewed, so those will have to wait for another occasion. The harvest began on September 7 at this address, and Grégory Gouges reported rapid malolactic fermentations. His decision to bottle earlier than usual was occasioned, as at other domaines, by the desire to capture the wines' fruit tones in all their exuberance. This is an almost disconcertingly suave, elegant vintage chez Gouges, and while the range may shut down in bottle, that was hard to envisage during my December tasting.(WK)
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