The Mourvèdre-dominated 2017 l’Ancely is a rockingly good wine, and there aren’t many better Mourvèdre out there. Lots of blueberry and wild strawberry fruits as well as notes of spiced meats, herbes de Provence, and peppery garrigue notes all soar from the glass of this full-bodied red. Offering a layered, seamless texture, good acidity, and enough structure to warrant 2-4 years of bottle age, it’s going to have 15+ years of prime drinking from cold cellars. 96+
The 2017 La Clape L'Ancely is a stunning example of Mourvèdre's potential in the La Clape appellation. It's a very different expression from, say, Bandol, but more seductive and tender in the hands of this estate. Raspberries and cherries abound, and while there's a hint of the variety's so-called tree-bark character, there's also subtle spice and brine elements that give the wine a savory edge. It's medium to full-bodied, richly textural and plush, accessible now but sure to age well for at least 5-6 years—and possibly considerably longer, given Mourvèdre's resistance to oxidation. This is fast becoming my personal favorite of the Negly lineup. This estate in the La Clape appellation has made a huge reputation as one of the top red wine producers in the Languedoc, crafting massive yet balanced and even somewhat elegant wines from the region's classic grape varieties. The Paux-Rosset family, with help from consultant Claude Gros, consistently makes terrific wine, with the big mystery being how so many of the descriptors can add up to something that sounds like dessert, yet the wines come across as savory and easy to drink. If I knew how they were able to do it, I'd start my own consulting business. Instead, I'm just left to enjoy and marvel at their results. (JC)
A fresh, vivid red from this region with dried-strawberry character, together with other berries, flowers and fresh nuts. Medium body. Fine tannins on the finish. Serious, balanced red. Drink or hold.
Truffle and sage and eucalyptus on the nose, treacle plums on the palate. Rich and utterly, recklessly voluptuous. Deep velvet, heavy silk, billowing goose-down duvets and so deeply cushioned you could lose a body in it. Not one angle. (TC)
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