I found the 2016 rendition of this tank-raised bottling (for more on whose sources consult my review of that wine) a bit brusque and crudely Sauvignon in character as well as lacking in refreshment. But what a difference in 2017! Penetratingly high-toned mint and pennyroyal are joined on the nose by an anticipation of the bright lime and juicy honeydew that subsequently dominate the firm palate. The bracing, refreshing, pungently herbal finish is loaded with energy and transparent to chalky underpinnings. Winemaker Stephan Attmann readily concedes that when it comes to Sauvignon, some vintages it’s “on” and in others it can be uncooperative. We can both agree that 2017 is of the former variety. (DS)
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