A dense and flavorful chardonnay with creamy texture and flavor. Lots of citrus and grapefruit and very vinous. A blanc de blancs with weight yet freshness. Pure chardonnay with no dosage. A new wine. Lovely finish. 40% 2009 and 60% 2012.
A new cuvée from Laurent-Perrier, the inaugural NV Blanc de Blancs Nature represents the first time this house, for all its emphasis on Chardonnay, has ever released a blanc de blancs. Offering up aromas of citrus fruit, green apple, oyster shell and warm bread, the wine is medium to full-bodied, lively and precise, with a bright spine of ripe acidity and a delicately chalky finish. It's a blend of the 2012 and 2013 vintages with reserve wine from 2009, and chef de cave Michel Fauconnet told me that he had sought precision from the Chardonnay of the Montagne de Reims and texture from that of the Côte de Blancs. (WK)
While this Champagne is certainly dry, it has enough bottle age to have softened and brought out fruit as much as minerality. The result is finely wrought flavors of lime and kiwi lying over a taut texture. (RV)
The base year here is the superb 2012, contributing 60% of the blend. The balance is reserve wine, but unusually from one year only and not an immediate predecessor to the base: it’s from the sunny and generous 2009 vintage, which lends weight and complexity. Disgorged in January 2019, this is a great success, combining a familiar saline austerity with floral notes, hints of lime and calamansi and an almost adamantine finish. Michel suggests drinking it with sea bass cooked in a clay pot, though I would try it with lobster or oysters too! Drinking Window 2019 - 2023 (SF)
Ginger’s rooty spice parallels the austere acidity of this wine, while the flesh is full and generous enough to fill it with apple and lemon flavors. It’s round for a Brut Nature, ready to take on an oyster pan roast.
Greenish lemon yellow. Tiny little bead. 2012 is very concentrated because it was such as a small harvest and 2009 had lots of fruit and freshness. They don’t want a hard finish since there’s zero dosage. Lightly reductive and very Laurent-Perrier on the nose. Tight and delicate. The same texture as Grand Siècle. Very long and tightly knit. A little brother for Grand Siècle? Splits the difference between a house and a grower’s champagne. 17/20 points. Drink 2019-2025. (JR)
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