Almost absurdly fresh for its age. The spicy and mineral complexity is just beginning to emerge from the cloak of ripe tree fruits. This is as graceful as it is concentrated and as pristine as it is powerful. The best vintage of this wine so far released and the shining star of the vintage. Delicious now, but probably has a couple of decades ahead of it if you can resist its fascination now.
Located mid-slope on the famed south-facing Schoenenbourg grand cru, Schoelhammer consists of just 30 rows of organically-farmed vines on marl with 45% clay. The 2009 vintage was a big success in Alsace, just as it was elsewhere in Europe, and it shows in this wine. It was aged in Hugel's cellars for an extended time until its release in June this year. The intense mineral and spice attack is followed by pure, lean yet soft stone fruits and tangy lime juice zing. It's very fresh and long, with a defining savoury character. A great example of a mineral-led Riesling. Drinking Window 2018 - 2034. (JB)
Luminous straw-green. Knockout nose of fresh and dried fruits, marzipan, honey, lychee and white flowers. Clean, fresh and juicy, offering flavors of fruit salad and fresh citrus complicated by almond milk and floral nuances. Deceptively easy to drink but very dense and deep, showcasing lovely balance (7.2 g/L total acidity, 13.6% alcohol and 8 g/L r.s.) and nicely combining Mosel-like floral daintiness and Schonenbourg power. You’d never guess this was made in a hot year like 2009. Finishes very long and vibrant, with ripe acidity typical of this site. This is the third vintage of the Schoelhammer to be released and it is hands-down not just my favorite, but also by far the best, purest and most precise wine of the three. Delicious. (ID)
The 2009 Riesling Schoelhammer opens clear, minerally and with intense fruit (lemon) aromas on the nose intermixed with crushed-stone flavors. Full-bodied, rich and firmly structured, this is a tension-filled, pure and salty Riesling. It is long and complex in the finish and quite tropical in its fruit expression. (SR)
Fine and creamy, with a pleasing salinity that offers a counterpoint to the juicy profile of ripe yellow peach, blood orange granita and ground ginger flavors, with a hint of honeycomb. Offers a fresh, focused finish. Drink now through 2029. (AN)
About to be released, early summer 2018 – although Marc Hugel would like to see it aged a further eight to 18 years!. Pale greenish straw. Vibrant, rich, smooth-textured and obviously several cuts above the Hugel Rieslings already tasted. Long and dense and compelling. Firm and dense with a thrilling undertow. Apparently the acid was relatively low in 2009 and the wines coming from the lighter soils are drinking well already. 18/20 points. (JR)
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