The 2017 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru is much more primal on the nose than the Premier Crus at the moment, just a little smudged, although that will gain clarity buy the time it is in bottle. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, saline and lightly spiced with touches of orange zest and marmalade, a little nutmeg, that defines that peacock’s tail finish. Very fine, but it will need three or four years in bottle. (NM)
Some very attractive, flinty nuances with a white-peach and wet-stone nose that carries to a palate with bright, assertive acidity and a very juicy, even finish. Drink or hold.
From a parcel on the sunny side of this climat that's the source for the domaine's sélection massale, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir unwinds in the glass with aromas of sweet citrus oil, honeycomb, yellow plum and green apple. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly textural, with succulent acids, vibrant flavor and a nicely defined, floral finish. The 2017 vintage is a decided success for this estate, and all these wines come recommended. Classically proportioned but charming in profile, this is one address where the 2017s seem to combine some of the definition and liveliness of the 2014 vintage with the sunny charm of 2015—a happy marriage that has made for wines that should give pleasure over a broad window. Readers looking for further commentary on Domaine Drouhin Vaudon's wines and winemaking are referred to Issue 238 (Aug ‘18) of The Wine Advocate. (WK)
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