One of the denser and more concentrated wines in the Gouges line up in 2017, this comes from a 0.98ha site on famously poor soils. Showing good texture and weight with sweet raspberry and black cherry fruit, it's supported by acidity, medium-weight tannins and a spicy finish. (TA)
Slightly riper aromas of plum liqueur, violet, warm earth and plenty of sauvage character lead to intense and notably dense broad-shouldered flavors that display first-rate power on the serious and youthfully austere finish. This is a big wine in the context of what is typical for the 2017 vintage and should age effortlessly. *Outstanding*
The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru has a lovely, intense bouquet that combines blue and black fruit, crushed violet petals and incense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, showing a little more cohesion than the Les Pruliers, if not quite the same mineral drive as Domaine Chevillon’s. Still, there is decent length and depth to this Les Vaucrains, though it will need several years in bottle. (NM)
The 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains is another unusually suave offering from Gouges, offering up aromas of dark berry fruit, wild plums, baking chocolate and rich soil tones, subtly framed by cedary new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and dense, but notably open-knit and juicy at the core, concluding with a long, sapid finish. Given how forbidding Vaucrains can be, this is an almost disconcertingly charming effort. (WK)
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