The 2004 Montrachet Grand Cru is a gorgeous wine that might be at its peak. Quite deep in colour, it has a fresh bouquet of acacia honey, shaved almond and mango, flirting with tropical notes but (wisely) not crossing that line. The palate is rich and viscous with fresh acidity to keep everything on an even keel. It feels fully mature with nougat and marzipan notes towards the finish. It is by no means a profound Montrachet but, my God, it just goes out and delivers sensory pleasure. (NM)
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