The 2017 Riesling Wehlener Klosterberg Auslese ** (Golden Capsule) is ripe and concentrated on the nose, displaying refreshing lemon and grapefruit aromas intermixed with the purity of crushed slate. Dense and concentrated on the textured palate, this is a lush, elegant and finely racy Auslese that tastes as precise and piquant as an Eiswein. Tasted in April 2019. (SR)
Though the two sites in question share high elevation and wind exposure, this wine from Molitor’s Left Bank home vineyard (in a side valley opposite Zeltingen’s Himmelreich) makes quite a contrast with the corresponding Wehlener Rosenberg from across the river and two miles upstream. Caressingly creamy and laid-back, it delivers baked caramel apple mingled with honey and marzipan and wreathed in heliotrope, finishing with soothing, unctuous persistence but without excess sweetness. Short on brightness or 'minerality'? Yes, but compelling in its remarkable, rich, seductive way. (DS)
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