The 2017 Riesling Kinheimer Rosenberg Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is super fine and delicate on the concentrated and peach-scented nose, which reveals an unexpected subtleness for this terroir that normally leans toward ruthless opulence. On the palate, this is a lush, highly refined and salty Auslese with amazing purity, piquancy, finesse and elegance. The acidity is pronounced but also delicate and gives this very fine Auslese piquancy and precision. (SR)
(06/2019)
Pear preserves mingled with vanilla cream and marzipan feature on a prominent nose and a plushly textured, confectionary palate. Fresh pear juiciness and limey brightness, along with a saliva-liberating lick of salt, collectively rescue the prodigiously persistent finish from becoming cloying, though it still comes off on balance as syrupy. With time, this "two-star" Auslese may well reveal greater complexity -- though it could already seduce you in an unguarded moment! (This bottling was muted from recent sulfuring and shrouded fermentative byproducts when tasted in mid-September 2018, but at the end of October, all save for a faint hint of sweat had dissipated.) (DS)
(01/2020)
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