The 2017 Riesling Kinheimer Rosenberg Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is super fine and delicate on the concentrated and peach-scented nose, which reveals an unexpected subtleness for this terroir that normally leans toward ruthless opulence. On the palate, this is a lush, highly refined and salty Auslese with amazing purity, piquancy, finesse and elegance. The acidity is pronounced but also delicate and gives this very fine Auslese piquancy and precision. (SR)
Pear preserves mingled with vanilla cream and marzipan feature on a prominent nose and a plushly textured, confectionary palate. Fresh pear juiciness and limey brightness, along with a saliva-liberating lick of salt, collectively rescue the prodigiously persistent finish from becoming cloying, though it still comes off on balance as syrupy. With time, this "two-star" Auslese may well reveal greater complexity -- though it could already seduce you in an unguarded moment! (This bottling was muted from recent sulfuring and shrouded fermentative byproducts when tasted in mid-September 2018, but at the end of October, all save for a faint hint of sweat had dissipated.) (DS)
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