Anyone who feared that quality would drop after a change of ownership at this historic domaine will be happy to know that this grand cru white is as good as ever. Blending components from three different terroirs and altitudes, it's an elegant, textured, saline white of incredible precision and understated power, with subtle toasty oak and undertones of jasmine and lemongrass. (TA)
The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is showing superbly from bottle, wafting from the glass with a complex and beautifully integrated bouquet of pear, citrus oil, toasted sesame, warm bread, oyster shell and white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with a racy spine of acidity and superb concentration without weight, followed by a long, defined finish. Surpassing the high expectations I formed a year ago, this would appear to be the finest wine produced at Bonneau du Martray for over a decade. (WK) 96+
An elegant, pure and admirably fresh nose flashes notes of green apple, mineral reduction and white flower scents. The racy but lacy middle weight flavors possess both excellent detail and an abundance of minerality before culminating in a refreshing, dry and clean finish that is less austere than usual. This should age well over the next decade.
The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, aged in around 30% new oak from three coopers, has quite an assertive bouquet; for me, the wood component is a little conspicuous at the moment, despite the modest percentage that it represents in the blend. The palate is more harmonious, and here the wood component feels better subsumed into the fabric of the wine. It offers a fine bead of acidity (pH 3.20), a sense of energy toward the finish and veins of orange pith and light spicy tones. This should be fascinating to watch, but I would like to see that wood component on the nose become fully integrated. (NM)
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