Very pretty intensity and bitterness to the dried citrus fruit and lemon pith. Medium-bodied with intense, steely minerals and creamy texture. Drink now.
The 2018 Kahlenberg Trocken was still in cask. This is superb and again, shows off the supreme elegance of the vintage at the winery this year, wafting from the glass in a very complex aromatic blend of pink grapefruit, tart orange, stony minerality, plenty of upper register smokiness, a touch of wild yeasts, orange peel and dried flowers. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, racy and focused, with an excellent core, fine soil signature and a very long, complex and seamlessly balanced finish. Excellent juice. (Drink between 2025-2065.)
Pear and fresh lime deliver crunch and piquancy in an interpretation of Kahlenberg that is unusually fruit-oriented but still preserves site-typical stoniness. The satiny texture is also unusually flattering, and the finish features abundant refreshment with a shimmering exchange of fruit and stone. “It took a decade before we really understood this site,” averred Dönnhoff, “but 2020 I think we have it nailed.” He’ll get no argument on that score from me. (DS)
The 2018 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling trocken is clear, fresh and flinty on the citrus-scented nose that displays ripe apple aromas. Silky, fresh and well-structured on the palate, this is a ripe and persistent yet still closed Riesling. Tasted in July 2019. (SR)
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