This is crystal clear with white flowers, white peaches and light apples. Full body, layered and complex. Savory and succulent. Tangy. Drink now.
The steep red sandstone slopes of the Höllenpfad have produced a lovely wine here in spite of the drought-affected 2018 vintage. It has some grip and texture at this stage, with plenty of dry, refreshing salinity providing a backbone for the gentle pear and tangy apple and lime flavours to lean on. Its 6.2g/l of residual sugar does a fine job of filling out the palate without bringing unnecessary sweetness. (JB)
The 2018 Höllenpfad Trocken is outstanding as well this year, offering up a fine bouquet of pineapple, tart orange, a lovely base of minerality, spring flowers and a topnote of orange peel. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and shows off lovely mid-palate depth, with a lovely girdle of acidity, fine focus and grip and a long, snappy and quite youthful finish. This will need some time in the cellar to properly blossom, but will be excellent.
The 2018 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling Trocken is extremely flinty and pure on the nose. Lush but filigreed and refined on the palate, this is a medium-bodied and crystalline, straight and elegant dry Riesling with a remarkably long and tensioned finish. (SR)
Smoky black tea and piquant pink peppercorn on the nose go on to stimulatingly accept juicy apple on a firm palate. Smokiness and piquancy predictably carry into the sustained finish, happily accompanied by generous juiciness and a mouthwatering lick of salt. I’m beginning to get a better sense for the ways of Höllenpfad Riesling after having had an opportunity to taste a couple of them at 3–5 years of age. So while this 2018’s relative generosity – which is not typical for the site – renders it lovely for current consumption, I would definitely recommend holding some for later. (For more about Höllenpfad, a fascinating and historically renowned sandstone site, consult my note on the Dönnhoff vintage 2014 Riesling from that site.) (DS)
Light chalky citrus nose. Beautifully fresh and pure, with great intensity. Underlying stony minerality but the fruit sings loudest. Rich on the palate for the modest alcohol. 16.5/20 points. (JH)
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