This perennially over-performing bottling does not disappoint in 2018. (After composing this tasting note, I noticed that the wine’s importer commenced his note on this 2018 with the words “perennially outstanding.”) Like a few other Selbach-Oster 2018s, though, it shows a surprisingly high-toned suggestion of fruit distillates to accompany its scents of fresh apple, pear, lime and wet stone. Flowers emerge only inner-mouth, but then in billowing profusion: clover and apple blossom, predominantly. The texture is subtly creamy (more like what I would anticipate from a Zeltinger Sonnenuhr) but also infectiously juicy. Nut and vanilla notes – perhaps partly a reflection of there being fuder involved here (whereas this bottling was long dominated by tank lots) – add appeal to a buoyant and juicy but also seriously stony finish. This will make an excellent keeper, though lamentably few people are apt to test that claim. (DS)
This shows a classic Mosel profile, with floral and orchard fruit notes, but also the character of the warm vintage, showing a bit more weight and concentration. Very well-balanced and open now, offering charming hints of yellow apple, quince and elderflower. Zesty and long. Drink now through 2030.
The 2018 Zeltinger Himmelreich Kabinett Halbtrocken had been bottled ahead of Prowein, but was showing very nicely. This is bottled under screwcap for full bottles, but the halves are bottled under cork, and this is what we tasted from. The bouquet is quite lovely, wafting from the glass in a refined mix of pear, a touch of fresh pineapple, salty minerality, orange peel and white flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, medium-full and juicy on the attack, with a fine core, lovely cut and grip and a long, vibrant and complex finish. Good juice. (Drink between 2019-2050)
Coolish and fresh on the reductive, clear and bright nose with its notes of crushed slate, the 2018 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken is a light and linear, charmingly fruity and refreshingly salty-piquant Kabinett. It has crystalline mineral acidity, well-concentrated fruit and an elegant, fruit-intense yet stimulating finish. Bottled with 11.5% alcohol. Tasted from AP 5 19 in May 2019. (SR)
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