This ripples with liquorice and black chocolate and higher acidity than the last two Echezeaux and Grand-Echezeaux wines - it's hard to ignore the width and depth on display here. I love how the different personalities are staked out in these last three wines, despite being located less than 500m from each other. 50% whole cluster. This is 1.36ha from the upper part of the Clos Vougeot hillside, on clay-limestone and clay-silt soils. Drinking Window 2022 - 2040. (JA)
The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of dark cherry fruit, black currant, crushed stone and light iodine aromas, very pure and seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and good acidity, the whole cluster (70%) lending a touch of pepperiness toward a finish that is precise and persistent. Superb. (NM)
Here too the nose is quite restrained and requires aggressive swirling to coax the aromas of cool and softly spice black cherry, violet, plum and earth. There is excellent volume and power to the palate coating big-bodied flavors that deliver fine length on the mocha-infused finish that flashes a touch of youthful austerity. This is even a bit more structured than the Grands Echézeaux so I would advise acquiring it with the express intention to exercise at least moderate patience.
Cold soils, éboulis calcaires (limestone scree) with some hard Comblanchien limestone. On the top of the slope and planted 1952 and 1954. Faces the north wind. The wine needs oak to match its power, says winemaker Michel Mallard. 70% whole bunch, 16 out of the 19 barrels were new. Barrel sample. Deep cherry red. Sweeter fruited than the Échezeaux and Grands Échezeaux, more ripe red fruits. Seductive aromas. On the palate, succulent, chewy with the fruit eating up the oak and the tannins compact and almost chalky in their fine grain, though they are a little more grainy than in the Grands Échezeaux. Vibrant and mouth-watering even though the acid is not high, there’s energy in the tannins. Chewy yet juicy. Intense and full of life. Very persistent. Dry and elegant. 18/20 points. (JH)
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