The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is another of the portfolio's high-points this year, bursting with aromas of wild berries, orange rind, incense and smoked meats. On the palate, it's full-bodied, fleshy and textural, with old-vine concentration, broad shoulders and a long finish. While this is a muscular, serious Charmes, it's also very elegantly rendered. (WK)
The level of new wood and menthol are borderline intrusive and while it does not dominate the underlying fruit of poached plum and cassis, it would be fair to say that it's not subtle. The succulent and impressively concentrated flavors are almost viscous as well as highly seductive, all wrapped in bitter cherry pit-inflected, youthfully austere and beautifully long finish. This promising effort appears to have more than enough density to eventually absorb the wood treatment.
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