A broad-shouldered, chunky red, this displays black cherry, iron and earth flavors. A bit rustic, with ample fruit and a saturated, black cherry aftertaste. Drink now through 2025.
A much fresher nose combines pretty red berry fruit with hints of the sauvage and discreet floral wisps. The sleek and vibrant if not especially dense flavors possess a much finer if less rich texture that contrasts mildly with a touch of finishing rusticity. This is attractively refreshing and should also drink well on the earlier side.
The 2017 Fixin Village bursts with pretty and decidedly fruit-driven aromas of blackberries, cassis and spices. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, open-knit and succulent, with melting tannins and a charming, expressive profile. This 13-hectare domaine, today directed by Pierre-Emmanuel Gelin, is an excellent source that deserves to be better known. Organic farming, long cuvaisons of largely destemmed fruit and élevage in judicious percentages of new oak, supplied by Tonnellerie Rousseau, are the rudiments of an approach that yields reliably pure and supple wines that are elegant but flavorful in style. While Gelin possesses an enviable parcel of the Clos de Bèze—and produces a fine example—the insiders' choice here is the excellent Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Prieur, from a plot planted in 1964 with especially fine selections of Pinot Noir. (WK)
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