Aromas of raspberries, sweet soil tones and grilled squab introduce the 2017 Fixin 1er Cru Les Hervelets, a medium to full-bodied, satiny wine with an ample core of fruit, framed by juicy acids and light but chalky tannins and concluding with a savory finish. It's an elegant middle-weight this year, and will drink well young. This 13-hectare domaine, today directed by Pierre-Emmanuel Gelin, is an excellent source that deserves to be better known. Organic farming, long cuvaisons of largely destemmed fruit and élevage in judicious percentages of new oak, supplied by Tonnellerie Rousseau, are the rudiments of an approach that yields reliably pure and supple wines that are elegant but flavorful in style. While Gelin possesses an enviable parcel of the Clos de Bèze—and produces a fine example—the insiders' choice here is the excellent Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Prieur, from a plot planted in 1964 with especially fine selections of Pinot Noir. (WK)
Here too there is just enough wood influence to merit mentioning on the fresh if mildly fruit essence of red cherry, cassis and dark currant along with cool earth nuances. The highly refined, restrained and seductively textured middle weight flavors possess a bit more stuffing while exhibiting good length on the balanced finale. While this is slightly more structured, it's still sufficiently pliant to be enjoyable young.
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