You couldn’t pack more stone fruit into a nose without overstretching propriety. Dried peaches, loquat, nectarines and apricots are all out on show. Behind that, though, are more subtle notes of flint and limestone. The acidity will set your mouth on fire, but it comes with sweeping, comprehensive oiliness to keep this rotund. Medium-to full-bodied but very, very long with lingering lemon pith.
The Grosses Gewächs bottling from the filet section of the Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg is also very promising and again, shows the beautifully elegant refinement of all the dry Rieslings from the Dönnhoff family this year. Helmut estimates that this is thirteen percent octane or just under in this vintage. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a very refined and expressive blend of tangerine, blood orange, salty minerality, citrus peel, smoky overtones and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and really packed at the core, with racy acids, great soil signature, laser-like focus and a very long, youthfully complex and very promising finish.
The 2018 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Im Mühlenberg Riesling trocken –GG– is super clear and flinty on the crystalline and herbal nose. On the palate, this is a medium-bodied, round and piquant dry Riesling that has been bottled with less than two grams of residual sugar, which underlines the crystalline purity and refreshing mineral character. The wine reveals a long and intense, quite powerful and textured as well as salty and piquant finish. This is the first release of the Im Mühlenberg, and it is an impressive wine that has been aged on the lees until the end of June. (SR)
This bottling from the stand of very old vines in Höllenpfad is full of juicy white peach fruit that I hadn’t expected from this site – but after all, we are talking about fruit-dominated vintage 2018. That’s not to say that certain elements conducive to austerity are absent: peach kernel piquancy, ash, crushed stone. On top of which, there is only one lone gram of residual sugar. The feel is full and firm, the minerally concentrated finish persistently pithy but juicy, and there is a welcome, saliva-inducing hint of salinity. “This is my new favorite child,” quipped Dönnhoff, “but it still has to finish school,” meaning not that these old vines need to be taught anything, but rather that he and Cornelius are still learning how to best channel this site’s and those vines’ potential. (For extensive background on this bottling and its site designation, consult my review of the inaugural vintage 2017 installment.) (DS)
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