This is a very contrastive sweet wine with sliced melon, white peaches and honey. Dried fruit. Full-bodied yet compact and tight, giving it an agile tension. Fresh and energetic acidity. Salted caramel aftertaste. Great wine. One for the cellar.
The 2018 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese is perfectly clear and fresh but still intense and concentrated on the spicy and complex nose. Lush and piquant on the palate, this is a fresh, stunningly pure and playful Brücke that is singing and dancing on the knife's edge. Fabulous in its purity, tension and finesse. Nevertheless, there is the ripeness you can expect from an Auslese. (SR)
For several decades, Helmut Dönnhoff has been of the opinion that an Auslese is a wine that needs botrytis and every example here has been a botrytized wine, at least to some degree. So, it is a great rarity to find not one, but two completely clean Auslesen in the family’s cellars this year made from golden and shriveled berries and no noble rot. The 2018 Brücke Auslese is a beautiful wine in the making, offering up a lovely aromatic constellation of pear, white cherries, honeycomb, bee pollen, apple blossoms and a lovely foundation of salty, slate minerality. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a lovely core, great focus and grip, snappy acids and a very long, dancing and still quite youthful finish.
Like its Hermannshöhle counterpart, this Auslese, picked in mid-October, reflects genuinely botrytis-free grapes, related Dönnhoff, but ones that were too numerous and too high in sugar to have used them elsewhere, “and certainly not in the Grosses Gewächs, which would then have ended up with 14% alcohol.” Quince and red raspberry jellies coolingly infused with honeysuckle and green herbs inform the nose and the soothingly, seductively creamy palate. There is a lovely sense of lift throughout, but especially on the finish, whose liqueur-like sense of fruit and herbal essences is reinforced by prominent sweetness. If this fails to exhibit the sense of clarity and animation of the corresponding Hermannshöhle, Dönnhoff suggested that that reflects the absolutely optimum bunches in the Brücke having been left hanging for what became a Beerenauslese. (DS(
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