* Burghound Sweet spot Outstanding!!* Here too notes of mineral reduction can be found on the even more elegant and slightly cooler essence of apple, pear and citrus zest. The racy tension-filled flavors are almost painfully intense yet manage to preserve a gorgeous mouthfeel, all wrapped in an impressively persistent, firm and delicious finale. This doesn't possess the sheer class of the Combettes and it needs more depth but the potential is here.
Notes of citrus oil, fresh apricot, pear white flowers and wheat toast preface Carillon's 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping wine that's a bit more delicate and fine-boned than his Folatières or Combettes. As I observed earlier this year, Domaine François Carillon—as well as François's négociant activity under the same label—is only a new incarnation of a long-standing family tradition that stretches back many generations: François is named after his great-grandfather, François Virot, the pioneering regisseur of Domaine Leflaive who must rank among the 20th century's greatest white winemakers, and he began working with his father, Louis Carillon, with the 1988 vintage. François's style is richer and more gourmand than his brother Jacques's, and he harvests later; in 2018, that translates to ripe, fleshy, textural wines that Carillon contends will be refined by long élevage on the lees. Purists might prefer his elegant, expressive 2017s, but these generous, gourmand wines will no doubt find an avid clientele the world over. (WK)
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