Whiffs of sulfur and matchstick are enough to overshadow the fruit at present. Otherwise there is good freshness to the tighter and more focused medium-bodied flavors that also exude evident minerality on the compact, lingering and markedly dry finish. As the description suggests, this is a bit awkward and should benefit from a few years of cellaring to more completely harmonize.
Offering up notes of white peach, spring flowers and pastry cream, the 2017 Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux is medium to full-bodied, open-knit and fleshy, with moderate concentration and a ripe core of fruit, concluding with a chalky finish. The 2017 is a great success for Olivier Leflaive and the house's able winemaker Franck Grux. While the scale of this important négociant house sometimes wins it short shrift from Burgundy collectors, the truth of the matter is found in the glass. The whole range this year is very solid indeed, and with Leflaive's "Récolte du Domaine" range, Grux has evidently pulled out all the stops to produce wines that can confound the prejudices of even the most skeptical. Many of these bottlings are derived from Olivier Leflaive's share of the Domaine Leflaive vineyards, which only recently reverted to him, and these cuvées in particular are worth every effort to seek out. (WK)
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