A pretty, airy and cool aromas feature notes of various white and yellow orchard fruit that carry wisps of spice and an exotic character. There is evident minerality suffusing the medium-bodied flavors that possess good energy if not quite the depth of the Champlots, all wrapped in a balanced and lingering finish.
The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois is showing well, opening in the glass with a pretty bouquet of Anjou pear, hazelnut cream, citrus oil and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with lively acids, moderate concentration at the core and a racy, mineral finish. The 2017 is a great success for Olivier Leflaive and the house's able winemaker Franck Grux. While the scale of this important négociant house sometimes wins it short shrift from Burgundy collectors, the truth of the matter is found in the glass. The whole range this year is very solid indeed, and with Leflaive's 'Récolte du Domaine' range, Grux has evidently pulled out all the stops to produce wines that can confound the prejudices of even the most skeptical. Many of these bottlings are derived from Olivier Leflaive's share of the Domaine Leflaive vineyards, which only recently reverted to him, and these cuvées in particular are worth every effort to seek out. (WK)
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