A great success from a challenging vintage, the 2013 Pegau is as aromatic as ever, loaded with scents of garrigue, smoke and saddle leather. Those are backed by ample dark-fruit flavors, hints of grilled meat and firm, dusty tannins. Drink 2018–2030. (AI)
Inky ruby. Highly complex, exotic aromas of black raspberry, cherry-cola, blueberry, potpourri, minerals and woodsmoke. Suave, lush and seamless, offering concentrated, palate-staining flavors of black and blue fruits and lavender pastille are braced by tangy acidity. Finishes with supple tannins, an echo of candied flowers and outstanding persistence. (JR)
Deep ruby. Potent aromas of ripe dark berries, licorice pastille, woodsmoke, game and garrigue, plus a peppery nuance that adds spiciness and lift. Round and fleshy on the palate, offering intense blackberry and bitter cherry flavors that become livelier and sweeter with air. The very long, energetic, sharply focused finish features fine-grained tannins and subtle, lingering notes of dark berries and smoked meat. (JR)
Steeped plum and blackberry paste flavors form the core, lined with smoldering charcoal and tobacco leaf notes. Reveals a light tarry edge on the finish, which pulls together nicely. A solid effort in this Grenache-hampered vintage. Drink now through 2025.
There’s an incredible track record of wines from this estate, even from difficult vintages, aging beautifully. A beautiful wine, especially in the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée (80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre and the rest other permitted grapes) has more depth and richness than most, as well as classic Pégaü notes of ripe black cherries, peppery herbs, tobacco leaf and hints of bloody meat. Medium-bodied, nicely textured and layered, it doesn't have the length or richness of a top vintage, but it has tons of character and given the track record here, I've no doubt it will have at least 10-12+ years of longevity. (JD)
Laurence Féraud farms 52 acres of vines spread throughout Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the oldest bearing for more than 100 years. She uses all 13 permitted grape varieties in this wine, fermenting them with their stems and without added yeasts or temperature control, then ages the juice for two years in large, old oak barrels. Her strategy makes for a savory, earthy wine, more redolent of bacon and black olives than fruit. Fine tannins hold the wine firm, even as it heads into gamier territory. Pour it with venison.
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