Hudelot-Noëllat's 0.8ha holding is made up of two parcels, both of them in the best bit of the Grand Cru. Aged in 40% new wood, this is a not a blockbuster style by any means, emphasising freshness, balance and harmony instead. Floral, racy and supple, it has well-integrated 40% new wood, some vanilla spice and a poised, elegant finish. Drinking Window 2026 - 2034. (TA)
Aromas of wild berries, spices, peonies, dark chocolate and subtle hints of grilled meats introduce the 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, a full-bodied, deep and broad-shouldered wine that's deep, concentrated and reserved. It had a late malolactic, making this one of the more backward cuvées in the cellar. There are fully 14 barrels this year, equating to a yield of around 45 hectoliters per hectare from the domaine's 0.69-hectare parcel. (WK)
Noticeable wood is present here as well on the discreetly spicy mix of red and dark currant, earth and a touch of forest floor. There is excellent intensity to the larger-scaled and mouthcoating flavors that flash outstanding power on the focused, long and very serious finish. In much the same fashion as the Malconsorts, the supporting tannins are relatively fine-grained which prevents this from seeming unduly rustic.
The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is the one cru that did not "click" with me out of barrel, coming across a little sullen compared to the Vosne Premier Crus. The palate is better thanks to the fine, slightly chalky tannins and the almost racy acidity that lends so much freshness and nervosité on the finish. Once the aromatics meld together, as I am sure they will do by the time of bottling, this should evolve into a fine Clos de Vougeot. (NM)
Though the 2018 Clos Vougeot from Charles van Canneyt is just about as ripe as the Malconsorts, it is completely different stylistically, and while the gorgeous Malconsorts wears its heart on its sleeve already, this Clos Vougeot is deep, muscular and reserved in personality and is going to need plenty of bottle age to blossom. The bouquet has plenty of fine elements in its mix of plums, red and black cherries, woodsmoke, chocolate, a good base of soil and cedary oak. On the palate the wine is broad-shouldered and rock solid at the core, with plenty of muscle and depth, firm, well-integrated tannins and a very long, ripe and potentially complex finish. This will be very good, but it is a puppy today and needs to be left alone in the cellar for a good fifteen years before it will start to stir. 2033-2075+.
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