From just below Les Suchots, the 2018 Vosne-Romanée Hautes-Maizières is strikingly good, bursting with scents of plums, raspberries, Indian spices, musk and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, textural and fleshy, it's ample core of fruit largely conceals its super fine-grained tannins and succulent balancing acids. As I wrote last year, the thoughtful, intelligent and increasingly self-assured Charles Lachaux seems to gain in authority each time I taste with him, and my most recent visit prompted the same reflection. As readers will know by now, in the cuverie, wines that were once heavily extracted and lavishly oaked are now gently macerated, with significant percentages of whole clusters, and matured in mostly used barrels. In the vineyard, the evolution has been just as dramatic. The vines' canopies are now rolled, emulating the practice of Domaine Leroy, and a new parcel in Aux Reignots has been planted at a density of fully 20,000 vines per hectare. That's hugely labor-intensive, yet it appears to be paying off, as Lachaux is able to achieve a concentration in the vineyard that permits the most gentle of extraction in the cuverie. (WK)
Just down the slope from Les Suchots, this small vineyard can produce very good wine, as is the case here. The red-fruited nose is fresh and zesty, and shows poise and a light leafy character. There's solid fruit here, quite rich and concentrated, with firm but ripe tannins. It displays plenty of drive as well as volume. Long juicy finish. Drinking Window 2022 - 2035. (SB)
An exuberantly spicy nose freely offers up aromas of violet, poached plum and dark cherry along with a lovely hint of orange pekoe tea. The succulent and suave medium-bodied flavors brim with dry extract before terminating in a powerful, punchy and palate coating if mildly rustic finish. This notably firm effort is not particularly elegant but overall it is an excellent and ageworthy Vosne villages.
The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Hautes Maizières has a very pure, generous bouquet of wild strawberry, Dorset plum and pressed rose petal aromas, all wonderfully defined, especially for a Village Cru. The palate is medium-bodied with quite sharp tannins, and more citric than the other cuvées. There is a pleasant piquancy on the finish. Excellent. (NM)
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