Here the expressive nose is at once spicier and a bit more elegant as well with its array of more evident floral influence on the black cherry aromas that are trimmed in a discreet application of wood. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess a velvety texture thanks to the sappy dry extract that also serves to buffer the moderately firm tannic spine shaping the delicious and lingering finish that is slightly firmer. This will need at least a few years of cellaring first and should easily reward up to a decade.
The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Clos d'Eugénie displays pretty notes of rose petal, berry fruit, spices and wood smoke, followed by a medium to full-bodied wine that's ample, velvety and fleshy, though it possesses more underlying structure than the regular Vosne AOC. Mallard told me he retained some whole clusters for this cuvée, which seems to have worked well. The 2017 vintage—the eleventh for this new carnation of the erstwhile Domaine Engel—is a success for Domaine d'Eugénie and the energetic Michel Mallard, delivering supple, expressive and seductive wines that are true to their underlying appellations. Early vintages at this address, it's fair to say, were so oaky and uninspired that serious consumers have tended to write off the Domaine d'Eugénie's wines, but that prejudice now needs to be revised, as the wines increasingly merit their attention. Congratulations are due to Mallard and his team for the turnaround they have achieved. (WK)
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