There's been a welcome shift in style in this wine in 2017, away from deep colour and extraction towards something that's more, well, Burgundian. Made with 60% whole bunches in 66% new wood, it comes from a 0.6ha parcel. Spicy, textured and aromatic, it has notes of orange zest, plush red fruits, good acidity and the tannic structure to age. Drinking Window 2023 - 2030. (TA)
Aromas of ripe cherries, sweet spices and a generous application of new oak introduce the 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Brûlées, a medium to full-bodied wine that's ample, gourmand and fleshy, with supple tannins, a generous core of fruit and an expansive, lavish profile. While this is true to the character of the climat, it was also the flashiest, most overtly oaky wine in the cellar when I tasted it. The 2017 vintage—the eleventh for this new carnation of the erstwhile Domaine Engel—is a success for Domaine d'Eugénie and the energetic Michel Mallard, delivering supple, expressive and seductive wines that are true to their underlying appellations. Early vintages at this address, it's fair to say, were so oaky and uninspired that serious consumers have tended to write off the Domaine d'Eugénie's wines, but that prejudice now needs to be revised, as the wines increasingly merit their attention. Congratulations are due to Mallard and his team for the turnaround they have achieved. (WK)
An attractively fresh nose offers up notes of ripe red currant, raspberry, dark pinot fruit and pretty spice wisps. There is equally good freshness to the relatively concentrated medium weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the focused, powerful and saline finish that is youthfully austere. This should be very good in time as the underlying material appears to be excellent.
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