Back at a decent crop size after the frost of 2016, this comes from a 0.5ha holding that's influenced by the cool breezes from the Combe d'Orveaux. With 60% whole bunches and 80% new oak, this is structured, serious and built to last. It's a big, spicy, profound wine with flavours of damson, black tea and liquorice. It needs a lot of time. Drinking Window 2025 - 2035. (TA)
A gentle dollop of wood surrounds the notably ripe aromas of cassis, plum, violet and Asian-style tea. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors brim with dry extract that both imparts an opulent mouthfeel but also enrobes the moderately firm supporting tannins as well and in the process renders them less prominent on the mocha-infused finish. This is very good but in 2017 it does not necessarily outclass the Brûlées.
From vines located in the lieu-dit En Orveaux, the 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru reveals aromas of ripe cherries, cassis, black truffle, rich soil tones and toasty new wood. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with ripe acids and some chewy back-end tannin. As was the case under the Engel family, it's the least exciting of the domaine's grands crus—which is surely at least in part a function of the parcel's location. The 2017 vintage—the eleventh for this new carnation of the erstwhile Domaine Engel—is a success for Domaine d'Eugénie and the energetic Michel Mallard, delivering supple, expressive and seductive wines that are true to their underlying appellations. Early vintages at this address, it's fair to say, were so oaky and uninspired that serious consumers have tended to write off the Domaine d'Eugénie's wines, but that prejudice now needs to be revised, as the wines increasingly merit their attention. Congratulations are due to Mallard and his team for the turnaround they have achieved. (WK)
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