The 2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is a great success, unfurling in the glass with aromas of blackberries, wild berries, rich soil tones and espresso roast, framed by a lavish but nicely integrated touch of toasty new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and layered, with a generous core of ripe but juicy fruit, concluding with an expansive, saline finish. While this is quite giving and charming by the standards of the appellation, it's the most concentrated wine in the Eugénie portfolio this year, and will likely prove the longest lived. The 2017 vintage—the eleventh for this new carnation of the erstwhile Domaine Engel—is a success for Domaine d'Eugénie and the energetic Michel Mallard, delivering supple, expressive and seductive wines that are true to their underlying appellations. Early vintages at this address, it's fair to say, were so oaky and uninspired that serious consumers have tended to write off the Domaine d'Eugénie's wines, but that prejudice now needs to be revised, as the wines increasingly merit their attention. Congratulations are due to Mallard and his team for the turnaround they have achieved. (WK) 92-94+
A reticent if broad-ranging nose is composed of quite deeply pitched essence of plum, dark currant, violet, lilac and a hint of sandalwood. There is a highly beguiling inner mouth perfume to the overtly powerful and muscular large-scaled flavors that possess a relatively refined mouthfeel thanks to the dense but fine-grained tannins supporting the beautifully long if presently compact finish. While this will likely be approachable after 7 to 8 years of bottle age, it should easily reward 15+.
Deep and spicy on the nose, that same dark purity of the Échezeaux but a little more aromatic. Darker, more black cherry and damson but also the freshness of wild fruits. A touch of vanilla sweetness and lots of spice. Tannins are firm and dry and almost chalky or sandy – ie you can feel the grain. Elegantly dry and fabulous length. Supple nevertheless and so beautifully cool on the finish. 18/20 points. (JH)
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