In past years, wine bottled under this designation represented the sole legally trocken Christoffel offering, but now there are three such. This is a relatively simply affair – as has been the case in past vintages – but it’s appealingly (and, for its vintage, surprisingly) bright, with generously juicy lime and apple picking up stimulation from seed piquancy as well as faint salinity on the refreshing finish. At 12.5% alcohol, the wine is by no means light, but it’s lively. (DS)
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