The Lafouges have very old vines in Meix Chavaux, as they celebrated their ninety-first birthday in 2018. These old vines have really crafted a beautiful bottle in this vintage, offering up a superb aromatic constellation of pear, apple, hazelnut, chalky minerality, white lilies and a deft foundation of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure and bright, with fine depth in the mid-palate, bright acids and lovely lift and grip on the long and complex finish. First class Meursault. (Drink between 2020-2045)
A very Meursault nose displays notes of roasted hazelnut, white peach, pear and freshly sliced lemon. There is a lovely sense of vibrancy to the rich but well-detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess a caressing mouthfeel, all wrapped in a clean and nicely dry finale. This will need to develop more depth to arrive at the top of my predicted range.
The 2018 Meursault Les Meix Chavaux exhibits a pretty bouquet of green orchard fruit, fresh apricot, Meyer lemon and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, generous but nicely incisive palate. This has turned out quite well in this warm vintage. I've sung the praises of this 10-hectare domaine in the past, and I continue to admire its wines. As I've written before, old vines, cultivated soils and classical winemaking are the rudiments of Gilles Lafouge's recipe for success. The 2018 vintage at this address, however, isn't an entirely unqualified success: while all the wines are flavorful and correct, several of this year's whites were a little fat for my palate. The domaine's reds have turned out nicely in a generous, fruit-driven register, but on the white side of the ledger, the wines don't match what Lafouge achieved in 2017. (WK)
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