Lovers of Côte Rôtie shouldn't bother waiting for reviews of this bottling—just try to get as much as you can every year. The 2017 Cote Rotie Cote Brune should be bottled by the time you read this, but at the time of my visit, it was still in barrel. Aromatically, this has it all—violets, stems, cracked pepper, amazing fruit. It's full-bodied, dense and absolutely packed, yet it comes across as silky, lithe and engaging, with tremendous length and complexity on the finish. Always a thrill to taste out of barrel, it does firm up after bottling, so try to resist the urge to pop a cork before 2025 or so. When his brother Jean-Luc Jamet went his own way with half of the family vineyards, Jean-Paul continued working in the existing winery above the town of Ampuis. It's always a treat to visit him there, getting a barrel-tasting tour of Côte Rôtie's numerous lieux-dits. (JC)
When this 100% whole-bunch wine is ready it will give you goosebumps. It has the brisk, saline tannins of 2016 and the fruit depth of 2010. There's a remarkable richness of expression to the velvety fruit, and it displays the most mind-bending, eye-popping fragrance of violets, juniper, bonfire smoke and burnt herbs. Despite it's intensity, nothing is overdone; it's not overly powerful, extracted or rich, it's just perfectly balanced, unforced and easy. A work of art, potentially worthy of a 100-point score once bottled. (MW)
The 2017 Côte Rôtie Côte Brune is more floral as well as exotic, with full-bodied, powerful notes of smoked game, ground pepper, violets, and framboise. Brought up in 25% new larger barrels, it has a deep, concentrated mid-palate, beautiful purity of fruit, and enough tannins to warrant a solid decade of bottle age. It’s a quintessential, more classic example of Côte Rôtie compared to the more hedonistic and bombastic 2018.
Dark violet. An intensely perfumed nose displays mineral- and smoke-accented black and blue fruit and floral pastille scents that pick up olive paste, cured meat and exotic spice notes with air. In a concentrated yet lively style, offering appealingly sweet cherry, blueberry, candied licorice and fruitcake flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Shows outstanding clarity and mineral thrust on a wonderfully long, floral-tinged finish shaped by chewy, slow-building tannins. Made entirely with whole clusters. (JR)
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