The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Cru has a tight, backward, stony bouquet; Alex Moreau mentioned that he strove to pick at the right time to keep a sense of strictness. The palate is taut and fresh on the entry, with a fine bead of acidity. Elegant and refined, without the weight of the Champs Gain or La Maltroye on the midpalate, but conveying a sense of athleticism and poise on the saline finish and an exceptionally persistent aftertaste. Superb. (NM)
Based on heavier, clay-limestone soils than most of Chassagne's Premiers Crus, this plush, powerful white is made with fruit from Les Fairendes and slightly stonier La Cardeuse. Smoky, oatmealy and textured, with beeswax and kitchen spice aromas, a taut mineral core and a palate-coating finish. Alex Moreau calls this a 'wine to lay down' and he's right. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030. (TA)
For many years now, my absolute favorite example of Morgeot has been fashioned by Alex Moreau, and his 2018 may well be one of the very finest he has yet crafted at the family domaine! The bouquet is flat out stunning, soaring from the glass in a blaze of lemon, pear, superb minerality, citrus zest, a hint of the pastry cream to come, apple blossoms and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, refined and nicely reserved in personality, with a great core of fruit, beautiful mineral drive, a very elegant structural chassis and superb cut and grip on the very, very long and vibrant finish. Great, great juice in the making! (Drink between 2025-2055)
The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot was one of the more reserved wines in the cellar when I tasted it, unwinding with notes of pear, peach, white flowers, mint and petrol. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, textural and precise, but needs time to fill out. Of course, that sense of reserve at this early stage is full of promise for the future. (WK)
Like the Champ Gains, this is sufficiently reduced to blur the distinctions of what appears to be notably ripe fruit. By contrast, there is very good freshness to the dense, serious and muscular larger-scaled flavors that possess fine depth and persistence on the balanced finish that flirts with rusticity. This isn't elegant but it's a very good Morgeot.
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