The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé En Buland Vieilles Vignes unwinds in the glass with a complex but reserved bouquet of white currants, citrus oil, preserved lemon, orange blossom and pastry cream. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with simultaneously the most concentration, depth and cut of any wine in the Barraud cellar, displaying all the power and tension that so routinely distinguish this cuvée. From a northeast-exposed parcel that was planted in 1934, this is a superb Pouilly-Fuissé from one of the appellation's élite producers. (WK)
Julien Barraud's flagship white comes from a 0.5ha north-east-facing site on the rock of Solutré. There's plenty of old-vine concentration with leesy weight, stylish oak, 20% new, and some pear and baking spices. It has a fresh, tangy finish. (TA)
There is a phenolic component (think olive oil character) to the petrol and softly wooded nose. There is a wonderfully textured and sleek mouth feel to the delicious and nicely delineated yet rich flavors that offer fine complexity and persistence on the reasonably well-balanced finale where the only (very) minor flaw is a hint of warmth.
The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes En Buland offers crushed gravel, dried flower and honeysuckle on the nose, which is backward at first but soon finds its voice and gains intensity. The palate is well balanced, with weight and amplitude, and quite spicy relative to the Les Crays, offering white pepper and just a hint of curry leaf. The finish feels focused, although I discern a little more complexity on the Les Crays at the moment. Still, this is certainly worth checking out. (NM)
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