The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru, which contains 40% whole bunch fruit, has a very detailed bouquet of crushed-stone-infused, minerally fruit; hints of incense and lavender emerge with time in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant right from the start, offering candied tart red fruit mixed with orange zest and citrus peel, wonderful definition and such vivacity on the finish that you will beg for another sip straight away. Might this surpass the Clos Saint-Jacques this year?(NM)
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