Just about pure perfection, the 2017 Clos des Truffiers showed beautifully last year from barrel and it doesn’t disappoint from bottle. As with the 2018, it’s tight and closed on opening, revealing a massive, brooding style carrying lots of minerality as well as huge blue fruits, iodine, ground pepper, violets, and candied orange blossom. Full-bodied, concentrated, and structured on the palate, with perfect balance in its fruit, acidity, and tannins, it has everything you could want from red wine, yet needs 4-5 years of bottle age. If you do open bottles over the coming couple of years, a healthy decant is recommended.
Now in bottle, the 2017 Clos des Truffiers remains an incredibly impressive wine. Full-bodied, rich and powerful, it bursts with blackberries, vanilla, baking spices and licorice, all held into place by gentle, velvety tannins. Mainly Syrah, aged two years in new French oak, it's the sort of hedonistic pleasure that no doubt will have true wine lovers salivating and puritanical believers in "the classics" wondering what is wrong with the wine world. Truth is, great wine can come from lots of places in the world, this little plot in the l'Hérault being one of them. (JC)
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