From a steeply sloping, southerly exposed parcel that's comparatively high in altitude, Thivin's 2018 Côte de Brouilly La Chapelle is especially successful this year, wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, raspberries, spices and dried roses. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with satiny structuring tannins, excellent depth and concentration and lively, succulent acids. The 2018 vintage has turned out well for the Geoffray family's Château Thivin, a historic estate that continues to rank among the reference points for classical, age-worthy cru Beaujolais. Working toward organic certification, the Geoffrays have banished herbicides and insecticides from their vineyards and number among the appellation's most conscientious farmers. In the cellar, winemaking is traditional, with semi-carbonic maceration and élevage generally in foudre—though some small cuvées see a little new wood. A staple of France's best restaurants—and this writer's table—any readers who are not acquainted with these wines are warmly advised to seek them out. (WK)
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