Very impressive purity of fruit and complexity on the nose with subtleness at the same time. It’s very tight and compact with beautiful focus and intensity. So long at the finish with ripe fruit and light toffee. Fantastic. Drink now.
Raised in foudre and derived from the historic southwest-facing enclosed vineyards of the Château Thivin, the 2018 Côte de Brouilly Clos Bertrand reveals aromas of plums, cherries and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered wine that's quite muscular and serious in this often open-knitt vintage, with impressive depth and concentration—and good tension too. This will reward some bottle age. The 2018 vintage has turned out well for the Geoffray family's Château Thivin, a historic estate that continues to rank among the reference points for classical, age-worthy cru Beaujolais. Working toward organic certification, the Geoffrays have banished herbicides and insecticides from their vineyards and number among the appellation's most conscientious farmers. In the cellar, winemaking is traditional, with semi-carbonic maceration and élevage generally in foudre—though some small cuvées see a little new wood. A staple of France's best restaurants—and this writer's table—any readers who are not acquainted with these wines are warmly advised to seek them out. (WK) 93+
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