An attractively fresh nose offers up notes of pepper, various red berries and soft earth nuances. There is both good energy and detail to the delicious middle weight flavors that exhibit only a mild trace of austerity on the relatively supple finish though there is enough tannin present to reward a few years of cellaring.
The 2014 Cuvée Exception is marvelously red fruity and vibrant this year, and this will make a lovely middleweight that would be great fun to sneak into a blind tasting of Cru Beaujolais down the road. The bouquet offers up a bright Gamay blend of sweet cranberries, strawberries, fresh herb tones and a lovely base of minerality. On the palate the wine is medium-full, focused and tangy, with nice intensity of flavor, fine focus and just a touch of backend tannin perking up the finish.
The 2014 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain l'Exceptionne, 50% Gamay and 50% Pinot Noir, has a reserved bouquet that takes time to come out of its shell. There are some dried violet scents here with touches of pebble infiltrating the red fruit. The palate is clean and fresh with crisp acidity. There is nice tension here, not long but precise and citrus-fresh on the finish. Just a succulent little drop of wine. (NM)
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