From a very young and very old part of the cru, the 2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese *** –42– is the pre-selection of the TBA, and the grapes weighed in at 145° Oechsle. The lime- and lemon-tinged, very intense and aromatic bouquet is amazingly fine, fresh and pure on the nose, displaying ripe stone fruit and pineapple aromas intermixed with the flinty and spicy notes of the specific slate soils in the WSU. Based on 70% to 80% botrytis grapes, this is a sweet yet highly refined and piquant Beerenauslese sold as a three-starred or "highly finessed" Auslese. This is a really delicate and promising Sonnenuhr of great class and style, with lingering and stimulating finesse and salinity. Fabulous. (SR)
A breathtaking Auslese with a cornucopia of exotic fruit, flowers and herbs. Packed with super ripe fruit, but so bright and precise with great energy. Hard to resist this combination of tropical seduction and uplifting freshness. Drink or hold.
The Faß 42 Three Star Auslese from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr is another botrytis wine of great purity and beauty. This was made from a combination of the very old family vines around the sundial and a parcel of “third leaf” vines planted in a different section of the vineyard. Readers may recall that the very first crop from vines this age produce the finest fruit for the first twenty-five years of their plantation, and some legendary wines have been produced from “third leaf” fruit, such as the 1988 Herrenberg Auslese Fuder 153 from Maximin Grünhaus and the 1985 La Turque from Guigal. Constantin reports that the old vines had a very clean botrytis to their bunches and the young vines were all beautifully ripe, golden berries. The numbers here ended up as 140º Oechsle, 150 grams per liter of residual sugar and eleven grams per liter of acidity. There is quite a bit more noble rot influence on the nose here than in the JufferSonnenuhr Auslese, but the same aromatic precision, with the bouquet wafting from the glass in a blend of tangerine, pineapple, honeycomb, a lovely touch of vanilla, slate, orange blossoms and citrus zest. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and zesty, with great purity of fruit on the attack, a bottomless core, lovely mineral undertow, a wonderful vein of acidity and impeccable balance on the very, very long, complex and perfectly focused finish. This is simply stunning!
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