A mild touch of reduction shaves the top notes from the spicy and ripe white orchard fruit and citrus nuances. There is fine intensity and density to the super-saline flavors that terminate in a refreshing, dry and crisp finale. While this well-made effort could be aged for a few years, it's already so delicious that it will be hard to resist young. *Outstanding!*
Opening in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, crushed mint and crisp green orchard fruit, the 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté is medium to full-bodied, pure and incisive, with an elegantly textural attack and a precise, mineral finish. Beautifully balanced, this will develop nicely in the cellar. Vincent Dureuil and his wife Céline took over the family estate in 1994, and today this 20-hectare domaine ranks—along with Domaine Bruno Lorenzon in Mercurey—as the finest winery in the Côte Chalonnaise. Organic farming, cultivated soils and virtuosic winemaking combine to striking effect, yielding textural but incisive whites and perfumed, supple reds that number among my favorite wines in Burgundy. And if this address is Rully's reference point, that doesn't detract from what Dureuil achieves in Puligny-Montrachet and Nuits-Saint-Georges, where he also produces benchmark examples. Last year, I wrote that Vincent's 2017s represented his finest portfolio to date (or at least in my tasting experience), and 2018 is a very worthy successor: the whites are touch more gourmand and textural in personality and will likely drink at their peak younger, while the reds are deeper pitched and more concentrated than their 2017 counterparts. In any case, the result is an embarrassment of riches. Plenty will find a place in my own cellar, and I couldn't recommend them to readers more warmly than that. (WK)
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