A discreet application of wood sets off pretty aromas of citrus, white flower and poached pear. There is again fine intensity and mid-palate density on the caressing and appealing textured flavors that possess very good depth and persistence for its level. This too is lovely, and it would make a good choice for an everyday house white. *Burghound Outstanding!*
The 2018 Bourgogne Chardonnay is showing nicely, mingling aromas of fresh peach and pear with hints of orange zest and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and charming, it's bright and lively, with fine depth at the core and racy acids. As usual, it derives from Dureuil's holdings in Puligny. Vincent Dureuil and his wife Céline took over the family estate in 1994, and today this 20-hectare domaine ranks—along with Domaine Bruno Lorenzon in Mercurey—as the finest winery in the Côte Chalonnaise. Organic farming, cultivated soils and virtuosic winemaking combine to striking effect, yielding textural but incisive whites and perfumed, supple reds that number among my favorite wines in Burgundy. And if this address is Rully's reference point, that doesn't detract from what Dureuil achieves in Puligny-Montrachet and Nuits-Saint-Georges, where he also produces benchmark examples. Last year, I wrote that Vincent's 2017s represented his finest portfolio to date (or at least in my tasting experience), and 2018 is a very worthy successor: the whites are touch more gourmand and textural in personality and will likely drink at their peak younger, while the reds are deeper pitched and more concentrated than their 2017 counterparts. In any case, the result is an embarrassment of riches. Plenty will find a place in my own cellar, and I couldn't recommend them to readers more warmly than that. (WK)
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